WHITE BALANCE
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WHITE BALANCE
Fix yellow indoor lighting or blue shade casts by sliding toward warm or cool. Instant preview on JPG, PNG and WebP.
or click to browse — JPG, PNG, WebP
Preview
fix color cast
Warm adds to red and takes the same amount from blue; cool does the reverse. Green moves a fraction of that, which is what keeps foliage and skin from turning magenta. At the ends of the slider the shift is about 35 levels out of 255 — enough to fix a tungsten or overcast cast, not enough to turn day into night.
Worth knowing what this is not: a real white balance multiplies each channel by its own gain, so it scales with brightness and leaves black alone. This adds a constant, which means shadows shift as much as midtones and a strong setting can push a bright area past 255. For a cast you can see, that difference does not matter. For colour-critical work, it does.
three steps
A JPG, PNG or WebP with a colour cast — an indoor shot under tungsten light, or a photo taken in open shade.
Right for warmer, left for cooler. Judge it on something you know should be neutral: a white wall, a sheet of paper, the whites of an eye. Skin is a poor reference because it is genuinely warm to begin with.
Export as PNG for a lossless copy, or JPG and WebP for the web. Correct the cast before compressing, not after.
quick answers
It adds a fixed amount to red and subtracts the same amount from blue, with a smaller shift on green. Warm moves toward orange, cool toward blue, and the maximum is roughly 35 levels out of 255 in either direction.
It targets the same problem with simpler arithmetic. A proper white balance multiplies each channel by its own gain; this adds a constant. The visible result is close for a moderate cast, and diverges in the deep shadows and the brightest highlights.
Find something that should be neutral grey or white and adjust until it looks neutral against a white screen background. Trusting your eye on the whole image rarely works — vision adapts to a cast within seconds of looking at it.
Partly. A tungsten cast is often stronger than the slider range, and correcting it fully with an additive shift would crush the blue channel. Get most of the way here, then lower saturation slightly to take the edge off what remains.
Because adding to one channel and subtracting from another pushes values into the 0 and 255 walls, where they stop. That flattens both ends. Back the slider off until the clipping goes away.
Fix the cast first, then exposure with adjust brightness, then saturation. Correcting colour after brightening means redoing it, because clipping introduced by the brightness step changes the cast.
No. Tone adjustment runs on a canvas in your browser.
Yes — free with no watermark.